A wood cutting and serving board is a beginner-friendly project you can complete in one weekend, with minimal tools.
Time Two days
ComplexityBeginner
Cost$25
Introduction
Accessorize your kitchen with DIY custom cutting boards.
I’ve made dozens of wood serving boards over the years, and am always delighted by how quickly and easily this particular one comes together. By using a variety of hardwoods, this board can withstand wear and tear and look terrific doing it.This project is great for beginner woodworkers, using only a table saw, jigsaw, clamps and a sander. Make one for yourself and have enough time left over to craft another. They make the perfect housewarming gift!
Safety
Proper safety precautions should be followed throughout this project.
- Wear safety glasses, a dust mask and hearing protection when you’re operating the table, jig, or miter saw, as well as the sander.
- Avoid wearing loose clothing or hanging jewelry. Keep long hair tied back.
- Keep your hands away from the blade and use a push stick on the table saw.
What’s the best wood to use for serving trays?
Hardwoods like mahogany, cherry, walnut and maple are best for this project.
How do you make a wooden tray food safe?
Use a food-safe butcher block oil.
How do you treat a wooden serving tray?
Your board will require maintenance through repeated oiling. See steps at the end for further info on protecting and treating your serving tray.
Tools Required
- 2 or 3 ratcheting or bar clamps with minimum 12 inch reach
- Drill
- Jigsaw or scroll saw
- Miter saw (optional)
- Orbital palm sander
- Paint cans or cauls (optional)
- Rotary tool with sanding drum attachment (optional)
- Table saw
Materials Required
- 1-inch Forstner or 1/2-inch drill bit
- 40- or 60- or 120- and 320-grit sandpaper
- 5 to 7 pieces 3/4-inch-thick maple or mahogany or walnut or cherry (or similar hardwoods) at least 16 inches long in varying widths
- Food safe butcher block oil
- Soft cloth or shop towel
- Tack cloth or damp rag
- Wood glue
Project step-by-step (8)
Step 1
Choose your wood
I don’t often buy hardwood because it’s expensive. But this project doesn’t require much, so I went wild!
- Choose varying widths, setting them side by side to check for complementary species.
- Find pieces with the most character that are free of knots and cracks.
- Check that the grain isn’t too visible. Oak has deep grain, which can trap food debris.
- Make sure your pieces of 3/4-inch-thick hardwood add up to a serving board that’s around 9-1/2-inches wide and 16 inches long.
Step 2
Rip cut your wood
These cuts are done at the table saw. Follow all safety precautions.
- Cut one or two pieces at a width of 1/2-inch.
- Keep the largest part of the wood next to the fence, to minimize the chance of the 1/2-inch cutoff getting stuck between the blade and the fence.
- Cut the other wood, if needed, into five to seven pieces, side by side, totaling around 9-1/2-inches. This doesn’t have to be precise.
Step 3
Cross-cut your wood
These cuts are done with the jigsaw or miter saw.
- Cut each piece, including the thin strips, at 16 inches long.
Step 4
Glue-up your boards
I was skeptical that glue alone would be strong enough for this project. But it works if done properly.
- Arrange all the pieces in your desired pattern.
- Place the widest piece in the center so it’s more stable to cut the handle later.
- Glue every edge of wood thoroughly with wood glue and place them next to each other.
- Evenly place clamps to secure the pieces to each other.
- Make sure your edges are even.
- Consider placing paint cans on top (my preference) to ensure the boards don’t buckle. Or use cauls (used in tandem with clamps, to spread even force across a large area.)
- Leave overnight to dry.
Step 5
Cut your handle
After the glue dries, remove the clamps and create the handle.
- Measure and mark the center of your cutting board, about 3/4-in. down from the top.
- Mark 1-1/4-in. to either side of that center mark. Mark again one inch below those marks.
- Draw an ellipsis connecting those marks. Make sure there’s enough room for your fingers.
- Drill three holes using a one-inch Forstner bit or a minimum 1/2-inch drill bit. One at each end of your ellipsis, and one at the center.
- Cut as close to the lines of your ellipses as you can with a jigsaw or scroll saw.
Note: If you prefer a solid surface with no cutouts, attach cabinet pulls to either end of the serving board and skip this step.
Step 6
Sand your serving board
This step will take close to an hour or more with a palm sander, but the results will be worth it. If you have a belt sander, it takes less time.
- Sand with graduated grits of sandpaper — 40- to 60-grit to start, moving to 120- and 320-grit.
- Sand all sides until perfectly smooth, including around the handle.
- I like to feel as I go with bare hands so I can identify any rough spots.
- Sand the inside of the handle hole with a hand-held piece of sandpaper, or a rotary tool with the sanding drum attachment.
Step 7
Finish your board for food-safe use
Because you’ll cut and serve food on this board, you can’t use regular stain or polyurethane to protect it. But the board does need a sealant. Use food-safe butcher block or cutting board oil.
- Wipe the board completely clean of sawdust with a tack cloth or damp rag, including inside the handle.
- Apply a coat of oil on all surfaces with a soft cloth.
- Wipe up any excess oil after a few minutes.
Step 8
Maintain your board
Each oil has its own specifications, but you should reapply butcher block oil over the life of your serving board. The following are the steps to keeping a wood serving board looking good:
- Wipe your board with oil and remove the excess oil every day for one week.
- Reapply once a week for the next month.
- Reapply every few months or as needed.
- Hand wash and air dry the board after each use.
