These classic patio chairs are low maintenance and easy to build.
Time A day
ComplexityBeginner
Cost$200 - $250
Introduction
It's challenging to find patio chairs that offer greater comfort, ease of maintenance and simplicity than these. Here's how to build them.
This patio chair is hard to beat and easy to make and maintain. The design is based on a couple of chairs I’ve had at the family cabin for more than a decade. Being a fiddle-with-it kind of guy, I modified the originals over the years, built others and eventually chose this design.
In case, you want to restore an old wobbly chair.Here is how you can fix it.
Figure A : Exploded View
Figure B : Side View
Cutting List (One Chair)
| KEY | QTY. | MATERIAL | LENGTH | PART |
| A | 2 | 1×4 | 28-1/4″ | Seat sides* |
| B | 2 | 1×4 | 21-1/2″ | Seat front, back top |
| C | 2 | 1×3 | 19-1/2″ | Seat supports** |
| D | 2 | 1×3 | 27-1/2″ | Back supports** |
| E | 2 | 1×4 | 24-1/2″ | Back sides** |
| F | 8 | 1×4 | 23-1/2″ | Legs |
| G | 1 | 1×3 | 19-3/4″ | Bottom back slat(cut to fit) |
| H | 12 | 1×4 | 19-3/4″ | Slats, back brace(cut to fit) |
| J | 2 | 1×4 | 29-1/4″ | Arms |
Overall dimensions: 35-1/4-in. tall by 27-in. wide by 33-1/4-in. deep.
* = 10-degree cut on one end
** = 15-degree cut on one end
Tools Required
- Basic hand tools
- Clamps
- Drill/driver
- Jigsaw or handsaw
- Miter saw
- Table saw or Circular saw
Materials Required
- 1-1/4" Stainless steel screws
- 180-grit sandpaper
- 2 - 1x3 x 8'
- 4 - 2-1/2" galv. carriage bolts
- 4 - 2" galv. carriage bolts
- 8 - 1x4 x 8'
- 8 - 3-1/2" galv. carriage bolts
- Composite deck screws w/plugs
- Galvanized nuts and washers
- PVC glue
Project step-by-step (12)
Step 1
Using PVC
Cellular PVC is a great material for outdoor furniture. It will last forever without needing sanding or re-finishing.
I recommend switching out your saw blades for specialized blades to cut composite or PVC material; you’ll end up with smoother cuts. You can find the one-inch-thick PVC boards I used at home centers. Mostly used for exterior trim, they have one smooth side and one grain side. That means you’ll have left and right sides to Parts A, D and E.
For each of these pairs, make sure the angled cut goes one direction on one part and the opposite direction on the other. This will allow you to assemble the chair with the smooth face of the cedar facing out.
PVC also requires special composite screws. You’ll need a special bit that sinks them just right into material. The screws also come with plugs to hide the holes.
Step 2
Cut the parts
Making more than one chair means cutting a lot of pieces to the same length. A stop block lets you cut a bunch without measuring and marking each board. Using a miter saw, begin by cutting all the parts except G and H.
Step 3
Assemble the seat base
Screw the front to the sides using two-inch screws, then PVC glue and screw the seat supports to the sides using shorter 1-1/4-inch screws. If needed, raise or lower the seat supports slightly so the space above them matches the thickness of the slats.
Step 4
Build up the back supports
Screw and glue the back supports to the back sides. Position the back supports to match the thickness of the back slats.
Step 5
Bolt on the back
Attach the back to the seat side with galvanized carriage bolts. Then screw the back brace to the back side supports.
Step 6
Build the legs
Because PVC can be somewhat flimsy, I doubled up the legs for this chair. Take two of the leg parts (F) and glue the smooth sides together flush on all sides with PVC glue. Keep the parts flush with a few 1-1/4-inch stainless steel screws.
Step 7
Attach the legs
On a flat and level workbench, clamp a pair of legs to the seat and back. The front legs should be clamped 2-1/2-inches from the front of the seat base and 11 inches from the bottom of the seat base to the bottom of the leg. The back legs should be close to 7-3/4-inches to the bottom of the leg and flush with back angle of the seat base (Part A).
These measurements are approximate and will need adjustment if the legs are not all flat on the floor. Check the legs for plumb and the seat for level, then bolt on the legs.
Step 8
Fasten the slats
Place the slats on the seat and the back. Position the end slats first, then space out the slates between them evenly (typically 3/8-inch apart).
I started spacing the slats for the back from the top and left a slightly larger gap where the outdoor cushion will cover at the bottom. I used spacers to keep the spacing consistent, then fastened them with a screw on each end.
Step 9
Mark the arm for a notch
Place the arm in on top of the legs and mark the angle where it meets the back of the seat. Transfer the mark to the top and bottom of the arm and mark a notch that matches the width of the seat back sides (part E).
Step 10
Cut the notch
Set the table saw fence and cut the long side of the notch first. Keep the top of the armrest facing up and stop when you reach the line at the end of the notch. To cut the rest of the notch, use a jigsaw or handsaw to match the angle traced in the previous step.
Step 11
Mount the arms
Set the arms in place and screw them to the tops of the legs. After the chair is completely assembled, it’s a good idea to take 180-grit sandpaper and ease all the corners. The PVC boards don’t have rounded corners and can get a little sharp.
Step 12
Plug the screw holes
The last step in building this DIY patio furniture: filling all the screw holes. The plugs feature the same grain pattern as the boards to really help them blend in. Be sure to line up the grain direction of the plug with that of the chair.
