A Guide to Turning Your Closet Into a Small But Mighty Office

Measure Your Closet Office and Customize the Plan to Fit

• Start by measuring the distance between the side walls.
• Decide how many shelf units you need, keeping in mind that 32 in. is about the maximum width for a plywood shelf.
• To figure out exactly how wide each cabinet should be, subtract 1-1/2 in. from the total measurement and divide the remainder by the number of cabinets.
  • This will leave a 3/4-in. space between the cabinet and the wall at each end that you’ll cover with the face frame. This 3/4-in. space makes it easy to install the shelf cabinets in the closet office without worrying about an exact fit. We needed three 27-1/2-in.-wide cabinets to fit our 84-in.-wide closet. We built the cabinets 47-3/4 in. tall. If you have standard 8-ft.-tall walls, the cabinets will reach the ceiling.
• After you do the calculations, double-check your math by drawing lines on the closet wall. Draw a level line 28-1/2 in. from the floor to mark the bottom of the 1-1/2-in.-thick countertop. Then, draw another line 47-1/2 in. from the floor for the bottom of the wall cabinets. Finally, draw vertical lines for the sides of the cabinets.
• You’ll also have to decide how wide to make the drawers.
  • You can use the technique we show here to build drawers in a size and configuration that will work best in your closet office. The key is to build the frame and mount the drawer slides before you build the drawers. Then, you can measure between the slides (photo 8) and build the drawers to fit.

Mount the Countertop

Mark the walls and attach the countertop supports

• The countertop is two layers of plywood that are glued and screwed together.
• Start by measuring the closet interior at the level of the countertop. Use a framing square to check the corners.
• Deduct 1/4 in. from the length and depth to allow for the top to fit easily. You can cover any gaps with the backsplash.
• Transfer these measurements to your plywood and cut out the two pieces. Use less-expensive plywood for the bottom if you like.
• Screw 1×2 cleats to the back, side and front walls to support the top (Photo 1).
• Draw level lines for the bottom of the countertop and cabinets.
• Draw vertical lines to indicate the sides of the cabinets.
• Then screw countertop supports to studs at the back and sides of the closet.

Family Handyman

Fasten the countertop

• Drop the top into place and attach it from underneath with 2-1/2-in. screws (Photo 2).
• Lay something heavy on top, or ask a helper to press down while you drive the screws.

Family Handyman

Cap the front edge

• Glue and nail a 2-1/4-in.-wide board (Photo 3) to the front edge to cover the plywood and add strength.
• Wipe off glue squeeze-out with a damp rag.

Build the Wall Shelf Cabinets

Assemble the wall cabinets

• Start by cutting the parts from the 4 x 8-ft. sheets of plywood.
  • If you’re using a table saw, keep the good side of the plywood facing up as you cut the parts. If you’re using a circular saw, face the good side down so that any splintering or chipping won’t show. We think it’s easier to finish the parts before you assemble them.
• Mount shelf standards on the cabinet sides before assembly.
• Then screw the sides to the bottom and top with 1-5/8-in. screws. Nail on the back.
• Drill pilot holes to prevent the plywood from splitting.
  • Nail the cabinet sides to the top and bottom before you drill pilot holes for the screws. The nails hold the parts in perfect alignment while you drill the holes and drive the 1-5/8-in. screws.

Family Handyman

Square the cabinet with the plywood back

• Use the plywood back as a guide for squaring the cabinet.
• Apply a bead of glue.
• Then, nail one edge of the plywood back to the cabinet side.
• The,n adjust the cabinet box as needed to align the remaining edges and nail these.
  • If you were careful to cut the 1/4-in. plywood back accurately, you could square the cabinet by aligning it with the back before nailing it on (Photo 5). After they’re mounted, you’ll cover the front edge of the cabinets with a wood face frame (Photo 7).
• Finish the front edge of the plywood shelves with iron-on edge banding.

Family Handyman

Install the cabinets

• Start the cabinet installation by screwing a 1×2 ledger to the wall to support the wall cabinets.
• Hang the cabinets by resting the bottom edge on the ledger, tipping them up against the wall, and driving 3-in. screws through the hanging strip into the studs (Photo 6).
• Secure the bottom of the cabinets by driving a nail or screw down into the ledger.
• Connect the fronts of the cabinets by hiding 1-1/4-in. screws under the shelf standards.
• Complete the installation by nailing on the face frames (Photo 7).
  • We used a 1×3 for the bottom face frame to hide the under-cabinet lighting.

Family Handyman

Finish the fronts

• Nail a 1×3 to the lower cabinet edge to create a valance for under-cabinet lighting.
• Nail 1x2s to the cabinet top and sides to cover the raw plywood edges.

Family Handyman

Build the Drawers

Build the drawer frame and measure for drawers

• Make sure your drawers fit perfectly by building the drawer frame first.
• Then measure between the slides and build your drawers to exactly this width.
• Start by laying two of the stringers (J) side by side and marking the location of the drawer dividers (K) on them.
  • Ball-bearing slides are not very forgiving, so measure and attach the drawer dividers carefully so the dividers are perfectly parallel when the frame is assembled.
  • For our 24-in.-deep countertop, we used 20-in. drawer slides. We cut the drawer dividers (K) 20 in. long and built the drawer boxes 20 in. deep. If your closet is shallower, use shorter slides and adjust these dimensions to match.

Family Handyman

Mount the drawer slides

• Draw a line parallel to the top of the drawer to indicate the center of the drawer slide.
• Line up the slide by centering the line in screw holes.
• The drawer slides have two parts. One mounts to the dividers and the other to the drawer.
• Remove the part that is attached to the drawer according to the instructions included.
• Then screw the part of the slide with the ball bearings to the dividers, aligning the bottom edges.
• The center dividers will have drawer slides on both sides.
• Screw through the stringers (J) into the drawer dividers (K) to build the frame. Be careful to keep the front of the drawer slides facing forward. Then add the second layer of stringers (J).
• Check the frame against a framing square as you screw it together to make sure it’s square.
• When the frame is complete, measure between the slides to determine the drawer sizes (Photo 8).
• Build the drawers by screwing through the sides into the fronts and backs and then gluing and nailing on the plywood bottom.
• Nail one edge of the bottom to the drawer box. Then, use a framing square to square the drawer box before nailing the other three edges.
  • To attach the drawer slide to the drawers, we first drew lines 1-7/8 in. down from the top edges of the drawers (Photo 9). (You may have to adjust this distance to match your drawer slides. The dimension isn’t critical as long as there’s about a 1/4-in. clearance between the drawer and the stringer when the drawer is mounted.) Then sight through the screw holes in the slides to center them on the line before attaching them with the included screws.

Family Handyman

Hang the frame under the countertop

• Make center marks on the frame and the underside of the counter and align them.
• Finish the drawer installation by attaching the frame to the underside of the countertop (Photo 10) and installing the fronts.
• Then use a spacer to set the frame 3/4 in. back from the countertop edging and drive the screws.
• Install the drawers by lining up the slides and pushing them in.
  • Photo 11 shows a tip for aligning the drawer fronts.

Family Handyman

Glue on the drawer front

• Starting with the center drawer front, dab on hot-melt glue and press it against the drawer.
• Quickly center the drawer front 1/4 in. below the countertop edge.
• Hold it still for about 10 seconds until the glue cools.
• Now position the other two drawer fronts.
• The hot-melt glue holds the fronts temporarily. Attach them permanently by opening the drawers and driving four 1-1/4-in. screws through the drawer box into the drawer front from the inside.

Family Handyman

Finish It off With a Cord-Concealing Backsplash

Hide cords behind a tall backsplash

• Attach the backsplash with cleats, holding it about 4 in. from the wall.
• Then, drill holes where you’ll have cords and install cord grommets.

Family Handyman

FAQs

Does turning your closet into an office require a building permit?

Most likely, you will not need a building permit to convert a closet into an office. The minor cosmetic procedures needed for a closet office, like building a desk or repairing drywall, do not require permits. But you might need a permit if you’re going to do any major electrical rewiring. Check with your local city requirements for guidance.

Will I be able to get an internet signal in my new closet/office?

Yes, your new closet office will get a wireless signal, as long as your router isn’t too far away. Your router should be centrally located so you can get a strong signal throughout the home. Put your router up high in the room; that way, it’s above obstructions. Barriers like hidden chimneys, brick walls and utility rooms with lots of metal between you and the router can greatly affect signal strength. Here are more tips for a faster Wi-Fi network.