Do you have an older driveway with open expansion joints? We'll show how to seal them, and even demonstrate a few brands of caulk.

3 – 4 hours

Beginner

$20 - $80
Introduction
If you have a concrete driveway, it's likely comprised of multiple slabs. The gaps between these slabs are called expansion joints.
The number of expansion joints varies with the size of the driveway — the larger the driveway, the more joints you'll have. But whether you have one or a dozen, all need occasional maintenance.
What Are Expansion Joints?
Two types are commonly found on concrete sidewalks and driveways: expansion joints and control joints.
Expansion joints are the gaps that provide room for the concrete to expand with warmer temperatures or when the ground shifts. This reduces the risk of cracking.
Control joints give the concrete surface a safe place to crack, controlling the location and extent of any cracks that do occur.
Can I Seal the Expansion Joints in my Driveway?
Absolutely. During construction, expansion joints are filled with material to prevent water infiltration. (I most often see fiberboard, but different contractors use different materials.) As this material wears out, it must be replaced with a new water-resistant barrier.
The easiest way to do that is with a little caulk and backer rod. This prevents water from getting under the concrete slab while still providing enough give to let the slab expand and contract without damage.
Should I Seal Driveway Expansion Joints?
Yes. Expansion joints need to be resealed as part of your regular maintenance.
Because expansion joints go all the way to the ground, water that gets between the slabs can wash away the underlying soil. The resulting voids can cause the slab to tilt or crack.
Control joints, however, do not go all the way through the concrete slab, and they typically don't need to be caulked. In the driveway I worked on, some of the control joints were particularly deep and would channel water into the expansion joints. So they needed to be caulked as well, though I left the shallower control joints uncaulked.
When to Fill Expansion Joints
You can typically determine if it's time to reseal by looking at the joints. If the existing filler is worn enough to allow water to get between the slabs, or if it's missing entirely, it's time to refill the joints.
Fill the joints when no rain expected for 24 hours and the temperatures fall within the caulk's installation directions. In general speaking, any time other than winter is fine.
What is the Best Sealant for Driveway Expansion Joints?
You'll likely use self-leveling or non-sag. Non-sag is similar in consistency to the caulk you've likely used for windows, doors or tubs. Self-leveling is more fluid and, as the name implies, will level itself.
There are several brands to choose from. I used three to demonstrate the difference in coloration and use.
I used Sika and Quikcrete self-leveling caulk. The Sika was more liquid and self-leveled faster and easier. However, the second tube of Sika separated and came out discolored. The Quikcrete self-leveling caulk was more viscous and went on slower, making it a better choice for gently angled surfaces. Both products had a distinctly smooth and shiny appearance. The Quikcrete was a slightly darker shade of gray.
For non-sag caulk, I went with Saschco Slab. It was easy to work with and had a darker gray tone than the other caulks. It was also textured to look like concrete.
Tools Required
- Caulk gun
- Knee pads (optional)
- Leaf blower or broom
- scraper
Materials Required
- Caulk Backing Rod (typically ¾-inch)
- Paper towels
- Play sand (optional)
- Sag-free Concrete Caulk
- Self-leveling Concrete Caulk
Project step-by-step (5)
Clean driveway
- Use a leaf blower or broom to clear any debris off the driveway.
- You’re trying to prevent loose debris from falling into the caulk as you’re working.
- I once made the mistake of working on a windy autumn day and spent a fair amount of time plucking leaves out of not-yet-cured caulk.
- You don’t need to power wash or otherwise scrub the surface, though many people combine expansion joint filling with cleaning and sealing their driveway.
Clean expansion joints
Next, clear debris from the joints themselves.
- Blow out the majority of the debris with a leaf blower tipped at an angle.
- Use a scraper to pull out stubborn debris.
- Scrape leaves or plant roots out of the joint if the original spacing material has rotted away.
- Scrape out any old caulk and give yourself a clean surface to work with.
- You don’t need to pull out every last bit of debris – remember expansion joints go down to the soil, so you don’t want to keep pulling up more dirt.
- Pull any leaves or weeds that could prevent the caulk from adhering to the sides of the joint.
- When that organic material decays, it will leave a void in the caulk/joint bond, allowing water to penetrate.
- A shop vacuum or broom can do the job as well.
Install caulk backing rod
- Select a foam backing rod sized slightly larger than the joint. That way, friction holds it in place as you caulk. (I used 3/4-in. for the expansion joint and 3/8-in. for the deeper control joints.)
- If you have a particularly wide expansion joint, fill it with something other than backer rod. Packing foam, for instance, can easily be cut to size.
- Cut the backing rod to length and press it into the expansion joint.
- Press the rod down to about a 1/2-in. to 3/8-in. below the slab surface. This will let a 1/4-in. to 1/2-in. layer of caulk top out just below the concrete surface.
- Using a metal scraper can let you avoid scraping your knuckles on the concrete.
- Knee pads aren’t required, but if you have a pair, they come in handy here and in the next step.
Caulk expansion joints
- Lay in the caulk much like you’re caulking a tub.
- The self-leveling caulk will smooth itself out, while any non-sag will need to be tooled.
- Keep some paper towels handy to clean up any excess caulk.
Texture caulking (optional)
You can skip this step if you want. I chose to texture my caulk because I used multiple brands of caulking, and the different shades of gray would have been distracting. The sand created a much more uniform color in the final product.
- Sprinkle play sand over the joints while the caulk is still wet.
- Once the caulk cures, use a broom or leaf blower to clear away the excess sand.