Confused by all the plugs that bring electricity to your home's appliances? You're not alone. We explain what they are and how they're used.
6 Types of Electrical Plugs and Their Uses
Updated on Sep. 20, 2024
Electrical Plugs, Outlets, Receptacles and Switches: What’s the Difference?
What do you call the thing on your kitchen wall your toaster plugs into? An outlet? A socket?
The electrical industry is filled with confusing jargon people use interchangeably. But if you’re trying to install or fix something in your home, it’s important to know the terminology. Let’s walk through some common terms.
- Plugs: Officially called attachment plugs, these are the plastic-capped, pronged ends of cords inserted into receptacles to deliver electricity to your equipment, lights and devices.
- Outlets: Often confused with receptacles, outlets are locations on the wiring system where electricity is delivered. Outlets are where the wiring connects to lights, receptacles and hard-wired equipment.
- Receptacles: These are the devices you plug things into to get electricity. Receptacles are installed at outlets. They can accept various plug configurations based on their use in your home.
- Switches: Many types exist, but their most basic function is interrupting power by breaking the flow of electricity through a wiring system.
So, what’s the toaster plugged into? That’s right, it’s a receptacle, and they have specific plugs that fit them.
Plugs and their receptive receptacles are standardized by the National Electrical Manufacturer’s Association (NEMA). They’re most often referred to by their NEMA configuration.
Here are the plugs you’re likely to find in your home.
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NEMA 5-15
If you look around your house, you’ll probably find these plugs and corresponding receptacles everywhere. They’re the ones with two flat blades and one round pin.
When plugged in, the flat blades carry the hot and neutral to your equipment, and the round one connects to your house’s grounding system. You’ll find these 15-amp plugs on appliances, electronics, lights and extension cords.
If you live in a house built before the 1960s, you may encounter ungrounded receptacles that won’t accept a modern three-prong plug. If that happens, never remove the ground prong to bypass this safety feature. Update your wiring, or replace the ungrounded receptacle with a GFCI.
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NEMA 1-15
These two-pronged plugs only have a hot and neutral, no ground prong. These come in two varieties: polarized, where one blade is slightly larger than the other, and non-polarized, where they’re the same size.
If the plug is polarized, the neutral is the larger one. That’s so you can’t accidentally stick it into the hot side of the receptacle.
Why no ground prong? Isn’t that a safety thing? Double-insulated tools and appliances aren’t required to have one, so you’ll likely find polarized and non-polarized NEMA 1-15 plugs in your home. Think coffeemakers, shop tools, vacuum cleaners and computer chargers.
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NEMA 14-30
If you’re installing an electric dryer, you’ll likely use this 30-amp, four-prong plug, especially in new construction. These plugs and receptacles have two hots, a neutral and a ground prong. Electric dryers use 240 volts for the motor and heating operations, but only 120V for the electronics.
Before the 1990s, three-prong cords were common. Instead of having a separate connection to ground, the three-pronged version relied on the neutral to carry ground current if necessary. You can still use these older plugs, but only if the wiring at your dryer doesn’t include an equipment ground.
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NEMA 10-30
If you get your dryer delivered to your older home and discover a three-prong receptacle where your four-prong plug should go, you’re allowed to use the older-style plug, called the NEMA 10-30. The dryer should have instructions on how to properly ground the dryer housing with this cord configuration.
Here’s a better solution for a handy DIYer: Pull an equipment ground to your dryer from your panel and install the safer cord. Call a licensed electrician if you need help.
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NEMA 5-20
These 20-amp, heavy-duty plugs are good for equipment that draws more amps than a standard NEMA 5-15 can handle.
These plugs have hot, neutral and ground prongs, but are configured differently so they can’t be plugged into a receptacle that’s not rated for it. When looking at the plug or receptacle with the ground prong on the bottom, the vertical prong is hot, the horizontal one neutral.
A receptacle that fits this style plug has a T-shaped neutral slot, meaning it can accommodate 20-amp and 15-amp plugs. These plugs aren’t generally found on standard household appliances, but you might see one in a workshop or commercial kitchen.
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NEMA 14-50
This big guy is your range plug, rated at 50 amps and 120/250 volts. It features three straight vertical blades for the hots and neutral, and one ground prong. Like the electric dryer, the electronics like the timer, clock and fan use 120 volts, while the heating elements need the 240V circuit.
When installing a range plug and receptacle, it’s important the wiring be large enough for the current the range will draw. Current NEC requirements are a 50-amp rated circuit with #6 copper conductors. If you replace your old stove, make sure the breaker and wiring can handle today’s newer models.
